I still like
writing letters, especially when I've got lots of stuff to talk about. Here's
part of a long one I wrote to a friend that tells the story of one recent
road-trip adventure: I drove cross-country through Canada to Seattle (where
I did a two-month internship at the Experience Music Project), then down the
west coast to Los Angeles, and back across the southern route with stops in
New Mexico, Kansas, and Ohio before arriving home in New York. To see photos
from the trip, go to Gallery One in the
Photography section.
...I thought I'd write
you a little about my wonderful cross-country adventure. You can read
it or ignore it, as you choose. I've got stories about Seattle, tales
of Tacoma--even a few Kansecdotes (uh, those're anecdotes about Kansas!)
The traveling part of the
past fall semester was pretty wonderful; the actual internship at the Experience
Music Project disappointingly less so. But it was, of course, an experience.
Paul Allen is ...[copy
deleted because work contract forbids EMP employees to mention any details
regarding the man the Seattle Times has referred to as "an eccentric
billionaire."]...EMP's going to be an interesting museum, I think, when
it finally opens--but [copy deleted, see above; stipulation applies to all
Allen enterprises]
I worked on helping to
develop several interactive exhibits for the SoundLab portion of this music
museum, which is now due to open sometime in 2001 at the base of the Space
Needle in a Frank Gehry-designed structure. (Experience Music is focused
on encouraging visitors of all ages to listen, learn, and participate in
music--and experience the power and joy of music in all its forms.) How
ironic that one of the exhibit "treatments" I worked on (and Allen approved)
involved hip-hop "music" and an interactive on "Match the Beat"---that's
a story unto itself.
Let's see, the highlights...
(in 2 minutes or less)...terrific salmon,
good beer, intriguing music--from a spectacular
Pacific Northwest Ballet production of Carmina Burana and a performance
by the St. Petersburg (formerly Leningrad Phil) in Seattle's new Benaroya
Hall to lots of funky club music with things like a lead cellist in a rock
'n' roll group (the Rachels) and a weekend-long folk festival where I camped
out in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge and got to know Beppe Gembetta,
Dan Crary, the Austin Lounge Lizards and others....
Discovered some wonderful
roads to dance with--I made my way down the coast on Highway One, from Vancouver
all the way through Big Sur and Monterey to southern California and LA (I
stayed in BelAir with an aging Viennese psychotherapist who's almost completely
blind). Then across the southwest, with almost a week in New Mexico (a weird
new-agey lawyer took me in)...Got my first glimpse of the Grand Canyon (lots
of snow and ice--the photos hardly do it justice, but I'd love to show you
the whole shebang some time, if you're interested).
Hit some great garage sales
in places like Carmel and Santa Fe. Listened with amazement to a crowded
poetry slam in Arcata, California; with pleasure to a Sunday afternoon music
"session" at a natural foods bakery in Trego, Montana; with sympathy to
a despondent young German traveler in Pescadero at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse,
now a youth hostel. Stopped taking pictures when I felt it was something
I HAD to do.
Brought home pinecones
and beach glass and driftwood from my solitary walks along many beautiful
ocean shores and forested strands; realized once again that being near the
ocean makes me happy--but so does traveling.
Determined to make the
Plains as interesting as the Coast, I dug through some intriguing Quaker
history in Kansas and Ohio as I traced the footsteps of my great-grandmother
(that's the one I included in the video; she was one of the first women
doctors in this country and practiced in a small town in Kansas from
1885-1943). I spent a few days in county courthouses and the backrooms of
historical societies, unraveling little mysteries, enjoying the (very different)
small-town character of places like Yellow Springs, Ohio, and Oswego, Kansas.
In addition to interviewing
several people who remembered being treated by "Dr. Emma," I managed to
locate the man who was her driver the last few years; he had been at the
wheel when the car overturned on a flooded country road, coming home after
a call. Emma, then 85 years old, was trapped beneath the car in a
rain-swollen drainage ditch; the driver could only hold her head above water
until a passing motorist helped him lift the vehicle high enough to free
her. She died of hypothermia--and as my dad always said, she quite literally
died with her boots on, which is how she would have wanted it.
I detoured a couple of
hours out of my way to interview the driver--who says he can remember nothing
at all about how she died. (Too long to explain here--I'll give you the
whole story if you're interested sometime.) Tried to track down where she
was born, where her office was, where her other children were buried--I
even went to a Quaker meeting in the process of seeking out information.
(Court records from her divorce in 1904 included several juicy bits, among
them quotes from the letters her husband had allegedly written to his lover.)
All along the way I met
people who shared their lives with me and took me into their homes, from
Winnipeg to Walla Walla to Wichita. Stayed several days with a woman in
Portland, Oregon, who's a nationally renowned glass artist; enjoyed time
with a by-the-book architect in Victoria, British Columbia; with an unusual
poet and math professor in Arcata, Northern California; a couple of happy-go-lucky
retired folks in warm climes like San Louis Obispo, southern California;
and several farming families in places like Michigan and Saskatchewan.
Other SERVAS visits introduced
me to a retired Shakespearean actor who's now a therapist (!), a couple
of independent children's-video producers, one wanna-be writer, a handsome
(but married) forest ranger, a couple of teachers and even one minister.
Somewhere in there were a doctor and two lawyers, a musician or two, a house-husband,
a geologist and microbiologist, a city planner, an interracial couple in
their 70s, a Jewish-and-Chinese family, a Lebanese storyteller, and two
men who'd gone C.O. in WWII.
I saw many beautiful places,
some new to me and some familiar from earlier trips: I paid homage to the
great redwooods again, hiked for the first time in the Canadian Rockies
and Glacier National Park, marveled at the place where the Monarch butterflies
winter over, clustering thickly in the eucalptyus groves of Pismo Beach.
Ate halibut cheeks and
Dungeness crab, tamales on the street, yogurt and cheese from a family cow,
and some amazing turkey dressing at a church supper; admired (with some
alarm) a really weird collection of saws and knives in someone's barn, helped
celebrate a kindergartner's first-day send-off, and got friendly with this
truly funny band--the Austin Lounge Lizards--at a funky "Mixed Bag" bluegrass
festival where the promoter put all his money into hiring talent and forgot
to advertise. (Fewer than 100 people showed up.)
Discovered several wonderful
museums including the brand-new Steinbeck Center in Salinas, the Getty,
the Indian and Folk Arts museum in Santa Fe, the Monterey Aquarium (have
you seen the new jellyfish exhibit?) and the Exploratorium, to name the
best of the lot. As you can imagine, I checked out the interactive exhibits
everywhere, was impressed by some and underwhelmed by others. (Did you know
the Steinbeck museum's re-creation of Cannery Row includes the barely noticeable
aroma of rotting sardines?)
It was hard to come back
home--but I missed my sister's kids (and worried about my house) so I got
back just in time to have Thanksgiving dinner with everyone. (Including
mom, who, I think, spent the whole time I was gone worrying something terrible
was going to happen to me.)
Anyway, I'm back, and need
to finish up graduate school (no, don't ask-- I have no idea what comes
next). All that's left is my portfolio web site, which I want to be
just great--but I have struggled with the organizing principle for weeks
now and have come to no conclusions. I know many of the things that it must
include, but I am not ready to sit down and start because I can't figure
out what the metaphor to serve as my organizing principle should be! (I've
been playing with obvious ones like a radio with buttons and stacked books,
but nothing is "it" yet.)
Headed to the Museums and
the Web conference again this year, this time in New Orleans in March, and
I will actually be chairing a session with participants from Brazil, Kenya,
and Canada as well as the US (the topic is community-generated content).
The program committee rejected my paper proposal, but instead asked me to
chair this one, which will, I suspect, be a good (if frightening) experience....
.